CONSTRUCTION OF THE DYNO


The following are some pics of how the frame is put together. If you still need help on the frame let me know and I'll see what I can do.


Dyno Control Panel

This is a picture of the Control Panel. In the upper right hand corner is my weather station. The weather station is a digital temperature and humidity gauge. In the middle is a single display Digitron DT-6. On top of the Digitron is a digital temperature gauge for the oil temperature. I ran the cord from the temperature gauge into the hydraulic resivoir. Below the Digitron on the left is the Pressure gauge. I used a 0-2,000 p.s.i. gauge to get the resolution down to 20 p.s.i. On the right below the Digitron is the Dyno flow gauge. It reads from 0-15g.p.m. I am not sold on the use of the flow gauge. I have been told that if you use the positve displacement pump like the one I listed in my parts list you do not need the flow gauge becasue the pump will put out a specific amount of GPM per pump revolution no matter what the PSI is. So far this has held true. In my Excel spread sheet the pump GPM is calculated from the pump RPM so you do not need to use the Flow Gauge if you use the positive displacement pump.


Dyno Frame

This is a picture of the axle setup and pump configuration.


Dyno Frame

This is a reverse angle view of the frame. Here you can see the tank too.


This is a view of how I anchor the dyno frame to the floor. I used 3/8" quick bolts (drop in anchors) to secure it to the floor. I placed two pieces of rubber under each leg between the frame and the floor to help with vibration. If you do not anchor the frame down in some way the frame will twist, bend, and "walk" away on you. The frame MUST be anchored down.


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Send mail to AuthorYou can reach me at phinishline@yahoo.com for comments, questions, and suggestions.


This page was last updated on 07/06/2004.